- 30 October 2017 | Surfing
Localism is a philosophical concept that is always present in the minds and actions of those who engage in surfing.
The surf industry continues to pictures the surfers and their dreams and adventures as something idyllic, ethereal, graceful and untouchable.
But the horrible truth is somehow different, cynic, and morally ambiguous. Surfers are greedy, voracious, insatiable, and find hard to share their treasures with their significant others.
It’s not a matter of education or learning and assimilating moral values. It’s in our nature. We tend to be polite, but we have our days, so lineups rarely are monasteries where compassion and tolerance prevail all the time.
We’ve all had our fair share of misunderstandings in the waves. The snaking, the priority, and the wave hogging moments will, sooner of later, hit our structural principles, and we become sinners like everybody else.
One of the most interesting things in surfing is that it’s intrinsically mobile. Surfers search and chase waves like a predator follows its prey. We rarely live and surf on the same place.
Hence, the discussion about spiritual, home, and local breaks.
The spiritual surf break is the place where it all starts. The spot where we caught our first wave; the peak that pumped that unforgettable ride. A spiritual surf spot usually stands in our memory as the venue where we first stood on a surfboard.
But, because our lives are constantly changing, we are many times forced to move to a different city. A professional career or a new family can send our surfboards to a new garage, thousands of miles away from our spiritual break.
The home surf break relates to the spot where you normally surf, the place where your face is easily recognized, and you feel welcome, safe, and relaxed.
Some surfers will live and surf where everything started for them, so their spiritual and home break are the same.
Then there’s the local surf break concept, a not so abstract notion that translates to the surf spots that are located close to us, and that we routinely visit depending on the swell and wind conditions.
From a logical point of view, and because we live in the present, it’s essential to have in mind that it’s not about where you’re from – it’s about where you surf.
If we demand respect in the lineup, we must act accordingly, even when the temptation arrives, and the next wave looks like the last one in the universe.